A delicious Good Friday morning. Squash blossoms yawning open with the sunrise. Hot coffee and fat buttermilk gouda pancakes with a side of crackling bacon. The nest thick three chickens deep; a solo clarinet issuing “Just a Closer Walk with Thee” from a radio hitched to the coop (I believe the ladies are urged along in their egg laying when serenaded with Southern gospel). Sandaled feet kicked up on a lattice creeping with vine; I meet the morning without ceremony, hair wild and undone, donning broken grease-smeared sunglasses and a draw-string muumuu. Clouds blink out the sun as they laze their way across a blue sky.
The raised bed in a bath tub is starting to overflow after three weeks of rain and sunshine.
Gosh. A day off never wears out its welcome.
On this holyday, pancakes as thick as English muffins to spurn quiet reflection. May the sunset tonight on the noble accomplishment of nothing.
Gouda Friday Savory Pancakes (such an awful pun)
Adapted from Martha Stewart Living
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 cups low-fat buttermilk, room temperature
2 tablespoons safflower oil, plus more for skillet
1 cup shredded gouda (2 1/2 ounces)
3 scallions, thinly sliced (1/2 cup), plus more for serving
Crisp-cooked bacon and Greek yogurt, for serving
Whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Add eggs, buttermilk, and oil; whisk until just moistened. (Do not overmix; a few small lumps are fine.) Fold in cheese and scallions.
Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium. Drizzle skillet with oil; rub with a paper towel to evenly coat. Cooking in batches, ladle 1/4 cup batter per pancake into skillet, spreading in an even circle. Cook until edges begin to set and undersides are golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip; cook until golden and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes more. Top with more scallions, bacon, yogurt, and pepper; serve.
The habit of gardening helps remind the gardener of how much can be accomplished in the world without you, growth and change in places you neglect to watch.
I only get out of bed if I know I can soon have a full pot of french press coffee. Or Click.
On call days, sustenance is about speed. I’ve posted on Click Coffee Protein shakes before, but oh man, stuff that you can take and shake to go –that tastes like an iced latte or mocha—is ideal. CLICK is sponsoring another giveaway through Bake This Day, so if you’d like to win a free canister of product, reply to this post, drawing will be on 4/19 at 12P!
Another favorite food on busy call days is nachos. I recently discovered Keli’s Hawaiian sauce products, and these Hawaiian marinades are perfect for summer snacking, easy to drizzle on whatever BBQ or salad or chip dish you’ve planned for porch sitting.
Keli’s Teriyaki Chicken Nachos
2 large chicken breasts
3 cups cheddar cheese, shredded
1 large bag tortilla chips
2 cups salsa (I like
Sour cream
1 cup Keli’s Hawaiian Ginger Garlic Teriyaki
½ can of beer
Various roasted red, yellow and orange peppers (optional)
1 1alapeno pepper, sliced
1 avocado diced
2 scallions, diced
In a crockpot, cook the chicken breasts in the marinade with a ½ can of beer for several hours. Until it falls apart, basically. Then when you are ready to get dinner on the table, put the chips on a piece of parchment on a baking sheet, cover in cheese and salsa, add more chips, cover in cheese and salsa again, and then put in the oven on Broil for 5 minutes, until the chips are brown and cheese is bubbly. Then top with sour cream, avocados and the chicken.
Posts sponsored by Keli’s and Click! Thanks to both for getting me through my residency.
Everyone who owns socks knows that lavender is good stuff. I had never considered using it as food, but in the realm of craft cocktails, we must leave no stone yet unturned. This cocktail is refreshing, perfect porch material for the coming spring and advent of Jazz Fest here in the Crescent City. This drink is a dazzling blend of floral and citrus—can’t imagine anything that tastes more like spring. It tastes great with and without alcohol, so, what you will. SO fancy.
Meadow Mocktail
Adapted from Food and Wine
LAVENDER SYRUP
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1/4 cup dried lavender flowers
MOCKTAILS
1/2 cup basil leaves
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
11 ounces chilled fresh grapefruit juice
1/4 ounces Angostura bitters
40 ounces chilled sparkling water
Ice
Basil leaves, grapefruit slices and/or lavender flowers, for garnish
Lavender Syrup first. Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 2 hours. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve.
In a mini food processor, pulse the basil with the lemon juice until minced. Scrape into a large pitcher. Stir in 11 ounces of the lavender syrup (any remaining syrup can be refrigerated for 2 weeks) and the grapefruit juice, the bitters and sparkling water. Strain into ice-filled glasses and garnish with basil.
To transform the mocktail into cocktail, use 24 ounces sparkling water and 16 ounces gin.
Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard in New Orleans is a street seeing its renaissance. This weekend I got to tuck into a new spot on Oretha Castle; I attended the Made in Louisiana festival at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum. Thrilled to have the opportunity to know a little better what is cracking on the food scene in my city.
Made in Louisiana featured forty local purveyors of food, beverages and culinary products. There was fresh baked bread, cold brew coffee, chocolate, gumbo, smoked tasso ham, craft beer, Cajun caviar, spicy agave nectar…I could go on. But here were the highlights for me:
First, there was the jalapeno chandelier. Then, fresh ciabatta—a loaf so light I have not had in years. It came out of the oven two hours prior to my purchase, mm mm. Thank you Mayhew Bakery. You have Bake This Day’s full endorsement.
I immediately went home and got out the fancy olive oil and fine balsamic and tortured my bulldog with each piece of hand torn crumb. Don’t worry, she got a little taste.
Then there was Acalli chocolate, a New Orleans chocolatier who imports their cacao from Peru. Delicious, rich little nibs.
Papa Yaw’s Spicy Ginger Peppercorn Agave Nectar was a hit in lemonade and in chicken corn nachos.
Orleans Coffee concocted some delicious cold brew.
Mint Juleps from Oak Alley Plantation.
Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse is my next stop when I’m craving andouille or smoked tasso. OMG. Delicious.
Finally. Caviar. Cajun caviar. I’m a convert.
I came home ready to cook, so inspired by my Cajun Creole Southern Feast State.
Alligator Chili Frito Pie
Adapted from Louisiana Cookin
½ cup olive oil
1 pound ground alligator meat
1.5 pounds ground beef
2 cups diced onion
2 cups diced celery
2 cups diced bell pepper
4 tablespoons diced garlic
4 tablespoons diced jalapeño
2 (16-ounce) cans pinto beans
6 (8-ounce) cans tomato sauce
2 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Salt, to taste
Cracked black pepper, to taste
A big bag of Fritos
Garnish: shredded cheddar cheese, minced red onions, sliced green onions, sliced jalapeño peppers
Instructions
In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium high heat. Add alligator and beef; sauté 20 minutes. Add onion, celery, bell pepper, garlic, and jalapeno. Sauté until vegetables are softened. Add beans, tomato sauce, and broth; bring to a low boil. Reduce heat, and simmer.
Add chili powder and cumin, and stir well; cook 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Once alligator is tender, season to taste with salt and black pepper. Ladle the chili into bowls. Sprinkle cheese and Fritos on top. Garnish with onions, and jalapeño, if desired.
And some red beans…classic style.
Red Beans and Rice
1 lb. dried small red beans (kidney beans), rinsed and soaked in water overnight, unless you don’t want to—you can just cook the whole thing longer—matter of preference.
2 smoked ham hocks
2 tbsp olive oil (or bacon grease, what have you)
2 onions, diced
1 red or green bell pepper, seeded, and diced
2 ribs celery, chopped
2 tsp. minced garlic
3 whole bay leaves
2 tbsp basil
2 tbsp oregano
2 tbsp sweet paprika
1 tbsp thyme
2 tsp garlic powder
½ tsp salt, or to taste
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 green onions, chopped
5 cups cooked rice, brown is better for you
Cayenne pepper or Tabasco sauce, optional
Heat onions, green peppers, garlic, and celery on a skillet in olive oil, ten minutes or so, until soft. Add this mix to a crockpot, with red beans, ham hocks, and bay leaves. In a small bowl, combine the spices and add 4 tbsp of the spice mix to the crockpot. Cover the mixture with water (about 2-3 quarts) and turn on the crock pot to High. Stir periodically and add water if needed to keep the beans covered. Cook for as long as you want… but keep tasting and add more spice mix if you would like. After several hours, remove the ham hocks, put some of the meat back in the pot if you would like. Remove once cup of beans from the pot and mash them until creamy—add them back to the pot for additional creaminess if desired. Remove the cover for the final 30-60 minutes, or until the sauce is the thickness you prefer. Serve over rice and sprinkle with green onions.
In the same pot, cook the bacon until crisp, and remove to the dish with the other meats. Cook the andouille slices until browned, and add to the bacon, etc. In the bacon fat, sauté the onion, bell pepper and celery until softened. Add the garlic, oregano and thyme, and stir for a minute or so. Stir in the reserved 6 cups of liquid, the beans, bay leaves and Cajun seasoning. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer, cover and cook until the beans are tender and the liquid is beginning to thicken. This may take anywhere from 2-4 hours depending on whether or not you soaked the beans overnight. Remove the cover and simmer until thickened, probably another 30 minutes.
Stir in the turkey, ham, bacon and sausage. Taste and add salt, pepper, more Cajun seasoning, Tabasco and/or cayenne as desired. Heat the meat through and serve over hot fluffy white rice.
Oven method: If desired, once the beans and seasonings are added, the pot may be covered and cooked in a 300° oven instead of on the stovetop. Remove the cover for the last half hour, and then add meat, etc. as above.
Went to a bounce dance class with some girlfriends recently, in the name of exercise. In the mirror, if I’m being charitable to myself, I looked like a marionette in the hands of an unskilled, perhaps drunk, puppeteer. Even when it isn’t pretty, adrenaline and a good bath in your own endorphins is the best thing for the soul. Dance your heart out. Then treat yourself to a tater tot waffle with some poached eggs. For brunch and dinner. Tater tots? I’ll take Best of Childhood for 1000, Alex.
Tater Tot Waffles with Proscuitto, Mustard and Poached Eggs
Adapted from Food and Wine
Nonstick cooking spray (or olive oil drizzle)
8 cups thawed frozen Tater Tots (32 ounces)
Flaky sea salt
1/4 cup crème fraîche
2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
2 cups baby arugula
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
12 thin slices of prosciutto (I used chopped up pieces of pancetta that I sauteed a touch)
Thinly sliced cornichons, for serving
Heat an 8-inch waffle iron; preheat the oven to 200°. Grease the waffle iron with nonstick spray. Spread 2 cups of the tots on it; sprinkle with salt. Close and cook on medium high until nearly crisp, about 5 minutes. Open the waffle iron and fill in any holes in the waffle with more tots, then close and cook until golden and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet; keep warm in the oven. Repeat with the remaining tots.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, mix the crème fraîche and mustard. In another bowl, toss the arugula with the lemon juice and olive oil. Top each warm waffle with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the mustard crème fraîche, 3 slices of prosciutto and 1/2 cup of the dressed arugula. Garnish with cornichons and serve.
These are so tasty! A little pro tip: be sure to pack more tater tots into the iron than you think are necessary–if there are gaps, the waffle doesn’t adhere together well and comes apart easily when you try to remove it from the griddle.
This meal was brought to you by the world’s greatest backyard chickens.
Let’s hear it for Loretta Lynn–my blue whale chicken who takes up more than her half of the nesting box and appears to have a ‘tude while she lays mammoth eggs.
There is an orange tree in my backyard, but it is not a tree of blood oranges. These delicious ruby teardrop orbs arrived by post last week courtesy of Limoneira in the most charming green box.
What delicious, fancy citrus! These were carefully sliced and savored, and the blood orange rounds adorned the plates in this succulent fish dish.
Citrus Roasted Halibut with Radishes and Blood Oranges and Kimchi Udon
Adapted from Food and Wine
1/2 stick unsalted butter, plus more for greasing
3 bunches of radishes with greens (about 2 1/4 pounds), halved if large
Kosher salt
Pepper
2 blood oranges, thinly sliced, plus wedges for serving
One 3-pound halibut fillet (about 1 inch thick)
1/2 cup dry white wine
Extra-virgin olive oil and flaky sea salt, for serving
Preheat the oven to 500°. Butter one side of a 12-inch round of parchment paper. In a large skillet, melt the 1/2 stick of butter. Add the radishes and greens along with 3 tablespoons of water and season with kosher salt and pepper. Top with the parchment paper, buttered side down, and cook over moderate heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the radishes are just tender, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, butter a large rimmed baking sheet. Arrange the orange slices in a slightly overlapping layer, then top with the halibut, skin side down. Pour the wine over the fish and season with kosher salt and pepper. Roast the fish for 12 to 14 minutes, until just opaque throughout. Cut into 8 fillets and discard the skin.
Transfer the fish, roasted oranges and any pan juices to a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with the radishes and orange wedges.
Then, regarding the kimchi… I have always found kimchi unpalatable UNTIL this recipe. With God as my witness, should I ever be forced into veganism, should I ever develop an allergy to cheese, this kimchi udon recipe would become my new macaroni. It is uncanny how much it tastes like cheese. With no cheese ingredients. Perhaps an effect of yolks?
Kimchi Udon
Adapted from Bon Appetit
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 cup finely chopped kimchi, plus ⅓ cup kimchi juice
2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste)
½ cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 pound fresh or frozen udon noodles
Kosher salt
4 large egg yolks, room temperature
3 scallions, white and pale-green parts only, thinly sliced on a diagonal
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Preparation
Heat 2 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium-high. Add chopped kimchi and gochujang and cook, stirring occasionally, until kimchi is softened and lightly caramelized, about 4 minutes. Add broth and kimchi juice and bring to a simmer. Cook until liquid is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, boil noodles according to package directions.
Using tongs, transfer noodles to skillet and add remaining 3 Tbsp. butter; cook, tossing often, until sauce coats noodles, about 2 minutes. Season with salt if needed. Divide among bowls and top with egg yolks, scallions, and sesame seeds.
Thank you, Limoneira, for the California sunshine on my porch. Your oranges are delicious, nutritious gifts.
My parents celebrated 41 years of marriage on Monday, and on that bright day in 1976, they served champagne cake to their guests in Portland, OR, my mother’s favorite. Mom recently came to New Orleans for a visit, and in addition to entertaining the chickens, restructuring my patio and filling raised beds made chicken-proof by wire, cunning, and hinge, she and I made this delicious cake from the Italian Baker by Melissa Forti (still one of the most beautiful cookbooks I’ve ever seen). Wonderful to see you, Mom.
Champagne Cake
Adapted from the Italian Baker
100ml (1/3 cup plus 1 ½ TB) avocado oil, plus extra for greasing
4 egg whites, at room temperature
225g (1 ½ cups) caster sugar
280g (2 cups) plain flour, sifted
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
245ml (1 cup) champagne, at room temperature
2 tablespoons double cream
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla paste or extract
FOR THE FILLING AND FROSTING
500ml (2 cups plus 2 TB) double cream
2 tablespoons icing (confectioners) sugar
80 g (3 oz) good-quality strawberry jam
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Lightly oil two 8 inch cake tins and line the bases and sides with baking parchment.
In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or in a mixing bowl and using a hand-held electric whisk) whisk the egg whites until frothy, then whisk in 100g (1/2 cup) of the sugar in small additions, whisking until stiff peaks form and the meringue looks glossy.
Put the flour, baking powder, remaining sugar and salt in a separate bowl. Add the vegetable oil, Champagne, cream and vanilla. Beat until incorporated, then gently fold in the whisked egg whites. Divide the batter between the prepared tins and bake for 30 minutes until a skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tins for 10 minutes before inverting on to a wire rack to cool completely.
In the meantime, place a stand mixer or a mixing bowl in the freezer for 15–20 minutes to chill. Using the whisk attachment or a hand-held electric whisk, whisk the double cream and icing sugar together in the chilled bowl, until it reaches a spreadable consistency.
To assemble, spread a thin layer of jam over one cake and top with whipped cream. Place the other cake over the first and, using a spatula, spread the whipped cream evenly over the top and sides.
I highly recommend the Italian Baker to Bake This Day readers; please purchase her book, I think she is my new baking hero– you can get it here: http://amzn.to/2fCWmJe. It should top your shelf.
I meant to get this one online before St. Patrick’s Day this year — Green Chocolate — but my mother came to town and I went on vacation and things fell into a new prioritization scheme as they should.
Extremely strong green tea flavor, and, many friends who sampled this remarked, “very interesting.” Not sure it a “gotta have it” snack food-dessert, but it is more a fancy addition to a table of chichipoopoo eats.
Sesame-Matcha Bark
Adapted from Food and Wine
1 1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil, plus more for greasing
One 12-ounce bag bittersweet chocolate chips (2 cups)
1 tablespoon matcha powder
Two 12-ounce bags white chocolate chips (4 cups)
1 teaspoon black sesame seeds
Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking pan and line with parchment paper, leaving a 1-inch overhang. In a medium bowl, microwave 1 1/2 cups of the bittersweet chocolate chips in 30-second bursts until just melted; stir until smooth. Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup of bittersweet chocolate until melted. Spread in an even layer in the prepared baking pan.
In a small bowl, whisk the matcha powder with the 1 1/2 teaspoons of oil. In a large bowl, microwave 3 1/2 cups of the white chocolate chips in 30-second bursts until just melted; stir until smooth. Stir in the remaining ½ cup of white chocolate until melted.
Mix 1/2 cup of the melted white chocolate with the matcha until no streaks remain. Scatter large spoonfuls of the matcha chocolate and the white chocolate over the dark chocolate layer and, working quickly, use a small spatula to decoratively swirl the matcha chocolate with the white chocolate. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Let stand at room temperature until firm, 2 hours. Remove the bark from the pan, cut into pieces and serve
Let’s have a moment to consider fondant. This was my first time experimenting with the substance, prompted by the fabulous and inspiring cookbook Gravity Cakes by Jakki Friedman and Francesca Librae (who, consequently, I imagine would be just the sort of kindred spirits I like to befriend, based purely on their silly taste and body of work).
Fondant is bread dough made of powdered sugar and gelatin. It’s a strange mix between pie dough and gum. Mine tasted pretty good, but mostly served the purpose of structure and tidying up the cake. Ooh, and the stream of Guinness cascading into the chocolate cake from above.
Brought this anti-gravity Guinness Cake to the first of the Midcity Supper Club gatherings, in honor of St. Patrick’s Day, and I can honestly say it was the proudest I have ever felt in a food offering. I felt like I was ten again bringing my diorama of the Alaskan mountain ranges to school—walking ginger-steps over each crack in the sidewalk, tottering my precious on the cake plate.
The cake cookbook was super helpful in navigating the first-time physics lessons of a fondant cake. Level four layers of chocolate cake (I used their recipe for chocolate cake, which was sturdy and yummy). “Crumb-coat” with buttercream frosting before adding the fondant.
For the fondant, roll it, drape it, trim, stamp and paint, arrange the handle and insert a straw/chopstick around which to mold your beer stream. Then top with foam frosting and voila!
Basic Rolled Fondant
1 (.25 ounce) package unflavored gelatin or agar
¼ cup cold water
½ cup glucose syrup or corn syrup
1 tablespoon glycerin
2 tablespoons (1oz/30g) shortening or butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
8 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar
Instructions
Combine gelatin and cold water; let stand until thick. Place gelatin mixture in top of double boiler and heat until dissolved.
Add glucose and glycerin, mix well. Stir in shortening and just before completely melted, remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Mixture should cool until lukewarm.
Place 4 cups confectioners’ sugar in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and using a wooden spoon, stir in the lukewarm gelatin mixture. Mix in sugar and add more a little at a time, until stickiness disappears. Knead in remaining sugar. Knead until the fondant is smooth, pliable and does not stick to your hands. If fondant is too soft, add more sugar; if too stiff, add water (a drop at a time).
Use fondant immediately or store in airtight container in fridge. When ready to use, bring to room temperature and knead again until soft.
I used the Swiss Buttercream recipe from another fine Robert Rose publication, Buttercream Basics by Carey Madden, and it was easy to shape into Guinness foam. Many eggs dedicated themselves to this project. Please, please, try this at home. So much fun and fondant was not as difficult as I thought it would be to make.
St Patrick’s Day is coming, so go find several pounds of spinach and dye your pasta green for the holidays! I received a pasta cutter Kitchen-aid attachment for Christmas this year, and the Pasta Bible inspire greatness.
I had always wanted to make my own pasta but have been thwarted by the usual laziness. The effort was richly rewarded—easily the best pasta I’ve ever had—no comparison to dry packaged products, no comparison.
I’ll be experimenting with a variety of different doughs over the coming months, but this first dough recipe appears to be a standard dough for most all kinds of pasta (cut, stuffed, shaped, etc).
Pasta Dough a la Pasta Bible
2 1/3 cups all purpose flour
3 eggs
1 TB olive oil
½ tsp salt
1 TB water
Sift the flour onto the work surface in a mound and make a hollow in the middle. Break the eggs into the hollow. Add the olive oil and salt to the eggs. With a fork, first mix the ingredients in the hollow together and then start to mix in the flour from the edge.
Gradually incorporate more of the flour until a viscous paste begins to form. Put the fork to one side and using both hands, heap the remaining flour from the outside over the paste in the middle. Work the flour into the paste. If the paste does not absorb all the flour, and if the ingredients cannot be easily worked, add the water.
Work in water with both thumbs, then press the dough into a ball and work in the rest of the flour. Knead the dough until it is firm but has a slightly elastic consistency, until it no longer changes shape when you remove your hands. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for one hour.
Then roll it out super flat and cut it into strips and feed it into your cutter! Or make shapes however you desire.
To add green dye, follow these instructions from the Pasta Bible.
Then make your favorite pasta dish! Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Hoping to catch some cabbage from the parade floats tomorrow…