Love Anterior with Masala Paneer Kathi Rolls and Spicy Mango Chutney

Love is anterior to life/ Posterior to death, says Emily Dickinson. Love is the leading edge and the lagging trail, a shimmering thread. In the wake of our present pandemic, we see traces of love’s leftovers all over the city. Artwork chalked on sidewalks, blooming and leafing from fresh plotted garden spaces and portraits putting prouder faces on the boarded windows of shuttered places where once upon a time there were these things we called “gatherings.”

Sometimes the concept of love anterior is better known as food on the plate, in front of my hunger, waiting.

Masala Paneer Kathi Rolls

Adapted from Food and Wine

FILLING

3/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt

2-3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

2-3 tablespoon finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

2 teaspoons garam masala

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon chaat masala

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 medium-size red onion, sliced

1 medium-size red bell pepper, sliced

8 ounces paneer (fresh Indian cheese) or firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

6 (6-inch) frozen parathas, whole-wheat flour tortillas, or pita rounds will also work

6 tablespoons Spicy Mango-Mint Chutney Chaat masala (SEE BELOW), for serving

Make the filling

Stir together yogurt, garlic, ginger, garam masala, lemon juice, chaat masala, and turmeric in a medium bowl until combined; measure 1/4 cup yogurt marinade into a separate small bowl. Add onion and bell pepper to remaining marinade in medium bowl; toss to coat. Add paneer to 1/4 cup marinade in small bowl; toss to coat. Cover each bowl; refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 8 hours.

Preheat oven to 500°F with oven rack 6 inches from heat source. Spread marinated vegetable mixture in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Roast in preheated oven until mixture is just charred in spots, about 12 minutes, stirring once halfway through cook time. Remove from oven. Increase oven temperature to broil. Stir marinated paneer into vegetable mixture on baking sheet. Return to oven, and broil until paneer is cooked through and vegetables are crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl; toss with salt. Cover to keep warm; set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 200°F.

Cook parathas according to package directions. Transfer parathas to a baking sheet; place in preheated oven to keep warm.

Assemble the rolls

Remove 1 paratha from baking sheet. Place an 8-inch square piece of aluminum foil on a work surface; place paratha on foil so that paratha is half on foil and half on work surface. Spread 1 tablespoon spicy mango-mint chutney evenly over paratha. Sprinkle lightly with chaat masala. Roll up paratha burrito-style, folding bottom up and sides in toward center, using foil to secure. Repeat process using remaining parathas, chutney, filling, and chaat masala.

This Mango-Mint Chutney is INCREDIBLE.

Spicy Mango-Mint Chutney Chaat Masala

Adapted from Food and Wine

1 cup packed fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup frozen mango chunks

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 small fresh serrano chiles, seeds and ribs removed, chopped

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped peeled fresh ginger

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Place mint, mango pulp, lime juice, 2 tablespoons water, chiles, ginger, and salt in a food processor. Process on low speed, gradually increasing speed to high, until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a small airtight container; press a piece of plastic wrap on mixture. Cover with a lid; store in refrigerator until ready to use.

With everyone rehashing their gardens right now, I’ve enjoyed Growing Your Own Cocktails, Mocktails, Teas and Infusions by Jodi Helmer. I’m inspired—lavender, echinacea, lemon verbena, and trumpet honeysuckle are my goals for next spring. For now, I’m putting my hibiscus to good use. This book also instructs on how to grow your own ginger…giving it a try this summer!

For our last weekend of Festing in Place, I made a hibiscus simple syrup to add to the daiquiri machine.

Hibiscus Simple Syrup (Make Mint Julep Syrup with this same recipe)

From Growing Your Own Cocktails

2 cups water

2 cups sugar

4 cups hibiscus flowers (2 cups dried flowers)

Add all ingredients to a pot and bring to a boil. Stir, turn off the heat, and then let steep for two hours. Allow to cool overnight.